Croatia - Zadar and Dubrovnic

It's slightly out of order by that how it rolls when your on holidays. 

Arriving in Zadar, we knew nothing of this small Croatian walled town within a larger modern city on the edge of Adriatic Sea. The mountains on the other side were hidden by the low clouds all day. I would love to see how high the mountains rose behind the city. 

The long horizontal line of clouds hide the potential views of mountains. 

One of the unique attractions of Zadar was the beautiful sounds of the 'Morske Orgulje', the sea water organ. Set into the steps along the waterfront, the motion of the waves creates the sounds from the under-water pipes. This continuous music is surpringly harmonious and soothing. This might be because of the rather calm waters while we were there. It would be very interesting to hear the organ pipes in more blustery conditions. 

(Once I have suitable internet connection I'll try to upload the footage of the pipes so you can hear them.)

Like we had experienced in Kotor, the water around Zadar is incredibly clear despite being right in the middle of the port areas. Fish of varying sizes could easily be seen swimming right beside the town wharf.  Michael, as he had done is several of our ports was keen to go for a snorkel among the sea life. 

Inside the Zadar city walls is completely different to the other cities we have seen. It's quite modern in part, due sadly to the war with Serbia in the 90s.  But they have also kept their history with the very old roman ruins (BC) proudly shown off and preserved within the town. The streets are spotless - no litter anywhere but the unfortunate scourge of modern society - graffiti is quite prevalent. 

As it is a Sunday the majority of shops are closed but the nearby gardens and park is a very pleasant (and after Venice, an inexpensive way!) to sit and watch the world go by and see the local families enjoying their day of rest. A cafe comprised quirky groups of furniture including tables made of the tops of roman columns, laid back sun deck lounges, swing chairs and fancy plastic table and chair settings. 

We had arrived early so it seemed an uncrowded and relaxed city. Later on in the day as the tourist influx hit, it lost that feeling a little. 

In contrast to Zadar, Dubrovnic is far more well known and the crowds along its walls and streets made it difficult to negotiate at times. There were 5 cruise ships in port! And this isn't even peak season!! We escaped for a couple of hours on a private tour including to the Fort Imperial where most tourists arrive at the top by cable car.  A wise move given that the wind was gusting and the queues were beginning to build up. 

Having a private driver meant we could explore more than just the walled city. Our route to the top took us along narrow roads that in Australia would be designated 'One Way' only! Passing another car called for skilful driving. We also stopped at the area of Dubrovnic made famous for the forest scenes in Game of Thrones. Not a show I watch but can see how it fits into the script. 

From here we could see houses in the neighbouring country of Bosnia. Our driver told us that he and his family often drive over the border for dinner as it's much cheaper than the now very touristy and hence expensive, town of Dubrovnic. 

We also travelled through the hills to what was described as the smallest river in Croatia. Forty metres long it has a small waterfall and provides wonderfully fresh drinking water. 

The view of the walled city from above is fantastic. 

Then it's back to climbing more steps.  The legs are screaming as once again I'm climbing hundreds of steps up (and down) the very steep walls of Dubrovnic. But for the views it is totally worth it. The wind died down and the sun was now shimmering over the water. 

The people in Dubrovnik were always very friendly and helpful, answering our questions in good English. It made the travelling easy for single language Aussies. 

Corsica - Ajaccio, beaches and mountains

Sailing out of the harbour of Ajaccio made for a beautiful evening. 

Corsica is somewhere I've never really given any thought to prior to this trip. It is famous for being the birth place of Napoleon Bonaparte. We didn't visit his original home but did get to see a couple of the many statues in the town honouring him. 

Ajaccio had a lovely old world charm to it. No fast food chains to be found here. The people were friendly and life for kids included old fashioned pedal cars and wooded toys. 

This French island is also known for its beaches although the one that the local tourist office girl recommended turned out to be a real dud. Maybe it's like much of Europe - once the main tourist season of July / August is over the place shuts down! We took the local bus which only runs once every hour and ten minutes. 

Unlike this poster there was no restaurant open or decks chairs on the beach when we got there!

Just seaweed but the view was still lovely. 

Rocks and beach towels in the little stretch of sand near the beach in the poster above. Temperature was in the 30s this day so Dani and I opted to catch the returning bus, back into town and try some of the highly recommended Proscuitto and cheeses for lunch. 

Meats were always freshly cut. Fortunately not quite as expensive as some of the meats seen earlier in the trip. 

Our gourmet picnic in the park near Napopleon's statue. Delicious! 

It would have been lovely to head up into the mountains but as always time constraints didn't allow. Probably the next best thing was seeing them from the ocean side as we departed port. It was easy to see why Corscica is called the Mountain in the Sea. 

Livorno and Lucca

 We must be in Italy - the trains are on strike and my tour to Cinque Terre has been cancelled! Despite this blow to my plans it has opened up the opportunity to visit the beautiful walled city of Lucca. 

I should have known that Murphys Law was well and truly in action when the touts surrounded the door as we exited the bus, were all very keen to sell us umbrellas! 

Unlike some of the walled cities I have visited, the walls of Lucca were wide boulevards where locals and tourists alike were enjoying a leisurely Sunday passeggiata (slow stroll), ride or jog. This contrasted with the narrow alleyways and small piazzas enclosed by the gently sloping walls. The short time frame of 2 hours to see this birth place of Puccini was totally insufficient. Having circumnavigated about a one quarter of the wall, it was down into the town to see the obligatory duomo and wander the cobblestone alleys. 

Shortly thereafter the heavens opened up and I regretted not taking advantage of the umbrella delivery service back at the bus. But ever the entrepreneurials, the touts could be found on every corner we turned and I finally succumbed, handing over my 5 Euros for a very dodgy brolly. As it was Sunday morning not many of the shops were open but those that were provided an insight into life in this small town. It can be expensive! Proscuitto prices were into the hundred plus euro range with the most expensive at €200 per kilo.  This must be the best ham the world! (Later in Monaco and Barcelona I was to see that this was perfectly normal. Can you imagine paying $300 plus/kilo for ham in Australia???) 

Other shops that were open were a welcome haven from the torrential rain with a purchase or two made. 

At least the choice of umbrellas made for some colour in the rain! Cafes and restaurants around the Ampitheatre Square were not so busy. 

The day we visited the streets were being decorated for one of annual religious festivals. Unfortunately the main attraction would be held in the evening, long after we had departed for the ship. It would have been wonderful to to have seen the houses and squares lit up by candle light.  Residents surround the windows and line the external walls of their houses with candles. 

My dodgy umbrella only lasted long enough to get me back to the bus where it was then promptly discarded with its broken prongs into the nearest bin. 

Getting back on board the ship in Livorno was another challenge.  The wind had sprung up to gale force and as we were about to cross from the small terminal to the ship, one of the gangway canopies went flying and crashing along the dockside and several guests also tumbled. Confined to the terminal for about 20 minutes the rain was travelling horizontal but we made the most of some brief internet connection. 

With time in the afternoon for a walk into the town of Liverno from the port.  It has an area referred to the Venice neighbourhood due to its canals but it's a very poor relation. 

We are sailing

From the hustle and bustle of touristy Rome, it was quite a contrast to venture into the elegant world of cruising on Cunard. The Queen Victoria is to be my home for the next 21 nights. It's a bit like walking onto a film set for Ye olde England. White gloves, butlers, maids, wait staff, cabin stewards all smiling and enthusiastic to ensure you have the best possible experience on their floating version Downton Abbey.  On the first week we have explored the Meditterrean from Rome to Barcelona via Livorno and  Monaco, returning to Rome via Corsica.

Despite the relative calm of the ship, it can be hectic just reading about all the activities offered on board, let alone deciding which ones to attend. That is when you have enough time, and more importantly energy, after a day exploring the cities we've visited. Discos, classical concerts, pub quizzes, dance lessons, cooking expos, no less than 15 bars and lounges, two pools, beauty spa, gymnasium, shuffle board, theatre productions, bingo afternoons, ballet, hilarious comedic juggler, lounging by the pool, darts, high tea, 

Clothing - tonight I have seen several men in Scottish kilts, Japanese ladies in full Kimonos, stunning taffeta ball gowns and even the occasional disco tart outfit. Everyone has their own opinions as to the definition of "formal!" While most nights are deemed 'informal', there are those nights that provide the fun opportunity to frock up and put on the dazzling bling. I have definitely not enough sequin and sparkles in my limited wardrobe!

Locating the different bars, restaurants, shops, venues, pools and even your own room can be a challenge. It's a big ship that I am slowly getting to know but getting lost - occasionally, is not  that bad. You might even find something you were looking for 3 days earlier! Unfortunately for me my suite is situated right in the middle of a very long corridor of same same doors on each side. Fortunately being in the middle it means that directly above my door is the Exit sign. Hopefully this doesn't mean that people will be evacuating via my room but it does make it so much easier to find!

 

It's somewhere down this corridor - that is if I have the right floor!!!

As for the food on board, I'll get to that in the next blog. Time to publish now while I have the opportunity. Ciao

How to dress an Italian man

It's all about the colour. A simple tale in pictures!

When in Rome.

Back in Rome after the beautiful Amalfi, the step counter on my wrist has been going off the scale in the past few days with an average of 25-30,000 steps a day. Rome is a relatively easy city to walk around. What looks like a long distance on the maps is generally no more than a half hour stroll. Fortunately the streets are more or less flat. It's only when you get to the monuments, castles, ruins, and of course the Spanish Steps that the knees start to scream "no more, por favoure". 

I returned to the Roman Forum and Colleseum for a new perspective. Unlike the first time many years ago where we only viewed the Forum from the outside,  getting down in amongst the buildings and ruins gave a much better understanding of what it was all about centuries ago. Despite the crowds, it was easy to move around the ruins taking time to read about the people - the Iives they lived; the amazing construction they undertook and what amused them. Not necessarily politically correct by today's standards. 

The Castel Sant' Angelo was another wonderful place to explore with its fascinating history of long heard about emperors and hideaways for papal exiles, not to mention the wonderful 360 views over Rome. Surprisingly, a good quality cafe with reasonable prices allows you to relax for while and take in the scenery after climbing the inevitable hundreds of steps getting from top to bottom. 

It was five years ago that I celebrated my 50th birthday with wonderful family and friends in the magnificent Villa Stommennano just outside of Siena and so here I am again for another birthday in Italy. This time it was a quiet celebration with new friends. I had received an email from the rail agent I booked the Rome/Naples ticket with, regarding a Prosecco tasting they were holding at Rome's central train station. Not one to say "No" to a glass or two of bubbles, I invited Jen and Chris (who I am cruising with) and their friends Jane and Harley to join me.  After enjoying a selection of Prosecco wines and learning some more about the different tastes of this Italian "champagne", I was called up by the organiser for a chorus of Tanti Auguri!  Thanks Jen for secretly mentioning to the organisers that it was my birthday. Then it was off to the pub for a drink and bite to eat.  

They say the Scalinata di Spagna or Spanish Steps is the place to sit and watch the world go by. But more likely it is a time to watch the tourists taking selfies, the touts selling their wares of cold water, wine or beer, FLO's (flying luminous objects), scarves, and an endless supplies of selfie sticks - just in case you didn't bring your own. A better place to observe the true world of Rome was in the gardens of Villa Borghese. Here the local Romans are out before their late dinners, strolling along the wide paths, sometimes with their dogs, rolling blading, drinking at the cafes, or heading to a play at the replica of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. As always time was too short to enjoy this huge and delightful area. Walking back to the Spanish Steps just as the sun was setting, we were able to savour the lovely views over the Piazza del Popolo and the St Paul's Basilica. 

Jen and Chris on the wide car less streets of the Borghese gardens. 

Good night from Rome. 

Limoncello, stairs and ceramics

The days around the Amalfi were most enjoyable, but at times I had a sense of ground hog day. I may have been in a different town - Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, Anacapri or Capri but I was getting a little tired of seeing shop after shop selling the same ceramics, limoncello, lemon candles and anything they could make using lemon fabrics. And don't even mention the thousands of stairs that I've climbed in the past week. 

 

But apart from the repetitive shops, there is much to enjoy and explore on this beautiful Amalfi Coastline. Whether it's from the sea side on a ferry to Amalfi or the chairlift taking you to the dizzying heights above Anacapri, from the bus ride through the narrow winding roads into the mountains, or just strolling along the beach in the early morning before the crowds arrive. 

 

The iconic picture from the Gardens of Villa Cimbrone high above the coast in Ravello. The views back to mountains were equally spectacular. 

Ravello looking back up the mountain to Scala. 

Doing it in style - my transport across to Capri. Seven of us travelled over to Capri in this cabin cruiser, seeing the sights from a water view before being let loose to explore on our own. The return leg included a refreshing swim followed by some Prosecco and nibbles. 

The soaring Faraglioni Rocks. It was a little on the rough side this morning so no boat through the eye of the rock 

Despite waiting 32 years to return to Capri and have the chance to see the Grotto Azzurra, the tides were against me.  Instead it was a visit to the Green Grotto. Having never actually seen the Blue Grotto I can't really compare. No complaints about this lovely and inviting water. 

Having arrived in Capri, it was time for loads of patience and standing in the queues. 1 - for the ticket for the funicular. 2 - to get onto the funicular to go to the area above Capri. 3 - queue for the bus ticket. 4 - queue for the bus to Anacapri. 5 - queue for the bus. 6 - queue for the chairlift. This isn't even full peak period. Note to self for future reference. Never go to Italy in July or August - it must be horrendous. 

It's been a very long time since I've been on a single chair lift.  It explains the extremely lengthy queue and long wait to get on. But the view from the top is unsurpassed. 

I was also fortunate enough to be in Positano for their festival of ballet. Who would have thought you could see ballet performed on stage at the beach. This was a new one for me but then I had seen my first professional ballet - England's Saddlers Wells, under a circus tent on the Isle of Wight. It was on every night I was in Positano and if I wasn't down by the beach watching it then I could hear the music from my balcony. What a surprise and delight!

Of course a trip to Italy is always going to have the essential element of Italian food. I enjoyed one of the best mussel soups with no less than 40 mussels, baked eggplant,  very el dente spaghetti and an interesting cannelloni. 

That's not a lemon, that's an Amalfi lemon!

 Forget the Limoncello. On a hot day give me a frozen lemon slushie anytime!

When the crowded ferries arrived with their invasion of day trippers and I needed some down time to relax, I decided to join the already tanned beautiful people by the pool and soak up the atmosphere while working on my own tan. It was a great way to avoid the crowds. Thank heavens that Hotel Ancora had a reciprocal arrangement with their sister hotel  - one of the very few in Positano with a pool. Heaven!

 Tourists getting ready to tackle those stairs. 

The umbrella on the right is pointing to my hotel room. 

On my final night in Positano the sunset was the best. What a glorious opportunity to sit, sipping prosecco, overlooking this beach and reflecting on a diverse stay on the Amalfi Coast. 

Ciao Positano and Amalfi. It has been a wonderful time.