Lest We Forget

Although it wasn't the main reason for coming back to France, I was keen to see, experience and pay homage in the areas of Northern France where our WW1 (& WW2) soldiers fought and so many now lay at rest. 

It was indeed a humbling experience tinged with tears at times not only for the men but because of the futility of their sacrifices. Lessons have not been learnt. 

However I felt that I should acknowledge the sacrifices that they made, whether that was for the right or wrong reasons. The hundreds of cemeteries and memorials we drove past and those we stopped at, left me aghast. It is mind boggling and totally incomprehensible the number of men who died in the Somme and Fromelles. And it wasn't only those on our side. 

The Digger Memorial. 

Crater left by massive underground bombing of the enemy trenches. 

I had booked a 3 day tour that would finish with the Dawn Service on Anzac Day at Villiers Bretonneux. But I realised that thousands of other tourists would also be there so I booked a separate one day tour of the Somme about two weeks earlier. It gave me the opportunity to see it in an unhurried manner without the crowds. I'm glad I was able to experience each way. 

The dawn service for Anzac Day was beautiful and moving. It was freezing cold but that only gave the minutest of inklings as to what our heroes endured.  It wasn't raining, we weren't knee deep in mud, or flooded trenches and there was certainly no enemy just beyond daybreak.  

The Australian Memorial at VB. the Australian pilgrims would be here en masses in 12 days time..

The view from the top of the memorial shows the flatness of the land that was being fought over. 

The Dawn begins.

Tributes left by the highest ranked GG Cosgrove to fellow travellers - Judy and Peter. 

Prior to Anzac Day we visited the Menin Gate. Here another service is held nightly starting with the Last Post to commemorate the fallen. Some 55,000 names are written on this memorial to honour those who have now known grave.  The seemingly endless lists of names on memorial after memorial and the cemeteries is mind boggling. 

Just a few of the Australians listed at Menin Gate. 

We visited other Commonwealth cemeteries including the New Foundland and Canadian as well as a German cemetery. The contrast was quite stark. 

Here you could still see where the trenches were. 

In contrast to the white gravestones of the commonwealth cemeteries, the German had plain crosses with four names per cross. 

Unlike our memorials at home which are generally in the middle of every country town and city, those in France are literally in the farmers paddocks. While we may only see them at home if we happen to drive past, here in France they have a constant reminder in their backyard. 

And as the residents of VB proudly announce on their Victoria School - "Do not forget Australia"

Their streets were lined with French and Australian flags and their windows and gardens inhabited by Aussie creatures. 

Garden inspiration!

Those of you who have seen my home know that gardening is not really my thing. 

So I've been trying to get ideas and inspiration from the magnificent spring blooms while I've been on holidays.

There have been the gardens of the palaces of England and France. 

Hampton Court Palace - beautiful fields, daffodils, jonquils and orderly garden beds. 

Or I could just plant lots of grassed area with some pencil pines and a fountain or two. 

In the Loire Vally we saw the amazing Chateaux. I had not been into a historical building so beautifully presented.  The fires were actually lit in the rooms providing a truly warm and inviting atmosphere and the fresh floral displays in the rooms were not only colourful but very modern and imaginative. 

Outside the formal gardens were just coming into bloom. 

The 'piece de resistance' would have to be Versailles. Instead of taking a tour of the palace I decided to take a tour of the gardens. This enlightening tour showed the beauty of the design and secret hidden places in the gardens that I would not have found on my own. Then I visited the two Trianons (smaller palaces) - used by Marie Antoinette among others, and their gardens. After 5 hours in the glorious sunshine outside I then headed back to the Palace, now without any queuing and wandered through the rooms almost unhindered by crowds. In the Hall of Mirrors it was now possible to actually the see the room and not just the tourists!

The view down the Grand Canal. 

The Hall of Mirrors with very few tourists!!!

Of course it's not all castles and palaces. The visit to Giverny to see Monet's garden showed what a lovely pond and a few water lilies can do to enhance a back garden( and inspire his beautiful artwork!)

As well as the famous pond there were also lovely rows of colourful tulips, espaliered trees and wonderful archways.  No everything was out in bloom but what was gave a great insight into this beautiful home style garden. 

A walking tour around the local Marais area of Paris also showed lovely little hidden gardens behind the tall centuries old walls. Some were private but others were community gardens. As our guide mentioned "if you see a gate or door open into a courtyard you are allowed to enter" as many of the gardens are a sort of right of way. 

Colour in every garden with spring, a pleasant place to sit and contemplate the world and the veggie patch in the corner.  

Or maybe given my slopped backyard I should plant some grapevines. 

This is the last remaining vineyard on Mont Martre. Each year they pick the grapes to make a wine that is sold for charity. Apparently it's undrinkable but the charity benefits greatly. 

As for my garden? Should I be putting in tulips, fountains, formal edges, espaliered fruit trees, masses of colour or some vines?

So after much searching I still haven't found a plan for my own garden, but it's been a delightful time trying!

Maybe a vine or two would be fun???

How to dress a man - part 2

Following on from last years post from Italy - How to dress an Italian man, here's my new version of How to Dress a Frenchman!

The picture says it all!

The Dutchies!

If I thought my week in London was hectic, I was completely unprepared for a weekend in Leiden, Holland where my friends Barbara and Mireille live. We met in the Galapagos back in Christmas 2011. We had last caught up when Mireille and Barbara visited me in briefly in Melbourne a couple of years ago.  

Mireille and Barbara had organised a 'program' for the weekend based on information of where I had previously been ( well what I could remember, given that it was 33 years since my last visit to Holland.) 

Off the plane at Schiphol airport and onto the train to Leiden where Mireille picked me up then it was straight to the pub for dinner with Barbara and some friends. Barb and co were there to listen to their singing teacher who was performing jazz and blues. A great way to kick off my time in Leiden - home of Hollands oldest university. 

Saturday became not only a whirl wind tour of Holland for me but also a chance for the Dutchies to see some more of their own country. Isn't that always the way?! 

I started the day with a cooling - make that freezing, toe dip in the North Sea. Definitely refreshing. For some reason the Dutchies didn't join me??

In contrast to the grey sea and sky, the fields of Holland were starting to bloom with the beautiful colours of spring flowers and of course the tulips. Stopping at the tulip farm was not on the 'program' but a quick roadside stop near some pretty fields would suffice. 

Well that was until we got closer and realised that there was just one very tiny little problem - these were hyacinths NOT tulips!!!  So some sheepish Dutchies and I headed north past Amsterdam. 

Although I had mentioned to the Dutchies that I been to several places on the last visit (1983) I had forgotten to mention Volendam. This iconic Dutch town is a major tourist destination with its lovely old houses, originally on the sea front but now on the land locked lake. This year marks the 100 year anniversary of their biggest ever flood which resulted in the dyke being built that now has Volendam sitting on the shores of a lake rather than the sea.

Mireille and Barb thought this would be an ideal opportunity for them to see part of Holland they had not previously visited as well as show it off to me.  It ended up a case of me almost being the tour guide for the locals!!!

So we went all out and did as any good tourist does when in Volendam and had our photo take in traditional costume. What a hoot! 

The fun continued back in Amsterdam for the evening where we enjoyed a great dinner cruise through the canals. Of course we had an obligatory stop first at the toll house (Waas) and then a early wander through the red light district. The English Bucks and Hens parties were out in large numbers already making the most of their weekend away!

Cruising around the canals was a marvellous way to see the beautiful old architecture of Amsterdam, the bridges and the lights once darkness fell. 

Mireille is a primary school principal and true to her background, recycled a quiz style walking tour of Leiden (she had previously run for her work colleagues) to start the Sunday morning off. Barbara and I had to follow her cryptic photos and and answer questions at certain stops along the way. There was also the obligatory stops for coffee, drinks or lunch along the trail. It was a fun way to discovery some of the hidden gems of Leiden, find out its history and also educate the Dutchies on their own town! Neither Mireille nor Barbara were aware until I read it on an information board that tulips were first planted in Western Europe in their very own Leiden. 

In true Dutch style Leiden is built on canals. The beautiful Sunday morning provided some very pretty scenes. The sun was out and slowly the residents and students came out to make the most of it. Where we might take a 'Sunday drive' in this city of water, the families take to the canals in their boats, cruising around, or stopping for a drink at the numerous waterside cafes and pubs. 

I was invited by the lady who lives in this VERY old building to come inside for photo as Mireille mentioned that I had come all the way from Australia. The lady was not so obliging to another couple passing by - they hadn't traveled far enough!!!!

Leiden is also the birth place of Rembrant.

Having successfully completed our challenge, Barb, Mireille and I caught up with Madelaine who was also on the Galapagos cruise with M&B and time for wander around the fort built on top of the highest point of Leiden.

 

Madelaine -the great photobomber!!!

Strolling back to Mireille's apartment, I couldn't see her car on the street and casually mentioned it to M. No - it didn't appear to be where she had parked it on Friday night.  Oops!! Without any sign of panic, histeria or swearing M calmly set about trying to locate her car - had it been towed or worse - stolen? A stressful half hour and several phone calls later it was confirmed as towed.  So apart from a nasty fine for M it also meant that we were no longer taking the car to her tennis match that night. I would have to ride one of her bikes.  

Now I'm happy to cycle - particularly when the path is on flat terrain, but M is about 25cm taller than me.  For the first time since I was 5years old, trying to ride my big sisters' bike, I couldn't sit on the seat and reach the peddles. So I peddled standing up which wasn't doing my dodgy knees any good at all. What should have been a 15 minute cycle took closer to half and hour! I must also have looked a sight in a very uncoordinated way as one of M's tennis mates (another Barbara) took pity on me and offered me her much lower bike to ride home. Heaven! A quick 15 minute ride back and M's comment was 'You really can ride!' Thanks Barb you saved my knees and cycling reputation. 

Thank you so very much Mireille and Barbara for your wonderful hospitality and fantastic memories of great weekend. What a way to see your beautiful city and country. 

Monday morning it was farewell to Leiden and and take a relaxing train ride onto my third country in just over a week - France.

Reminiscing and Randoms

It's been 29 years since I lived in Bayswater, London. Booking my hotel back here was deliberate. It's an area I'm familiar with and unlike some other parts of London I've seen over the past few days, it hasn't changed a great deal. 

I'd arrived at my hotel late in the afternoon and decided exploring the old haunt of Queensway on Friday night would be good way to reacquaint myself and starve off any jetlag. Not too much has changed - the area has a bit more of an Chinese restaurant vibe than I remember but the pubs are still there on the corners. The beautiful Whiteleys building, which many of the Dean Court boys worked to help build in 1987 is sadly now pretty much a white elephant. Coming out of Whiteleys I was shocked to be schat upon with a disgusting, slimy green pigeon poo. Not the best way to start my trip having to clean out my hair and jacket in the ladies toilets unless if course you follow the superstition that bird shit 'brings good luck'!! 

On Saturday morning the markets at nearby Portobello Rd were as crowded and popular as ever. But I'm not tempted by ancient silver pieces, or keen to try to get any precious fine English bone china cups back home in one piece either. 

But one of my main reasons to come back to London was to see some theatre. Saturday saw the first two productions ticked off the list. The matinee production of the unique and amazing Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night - I book I read about 10 years ago, did not disappoint. It was beautifully and cleverly worked onto the stage and provided an enlightening peek into the world of autism. 

With a couple of hours to spare between shows I wandered around the West End and past one of our favourite old haunts - the famous (or should that be infamous?) Wong Kei Chinese restaurant. Kathleen and Louise D - You'll be pleased to know that despite the nostalgia for this place that is renowned for its cheap food, fast service and rude waiters, I resisted the temptation to queue up on the stairs to wait for spare seat at their communal tables. 

Jersey Boys although not a priority on the must see list of plays, was a delightful production and provoked a surprisingly emotional response in me.  

Sunday provided the opportunity to explore the newer parts of London. Venturing onto the southern side of the river Thames, the towering Shard building beckoned me for drink on the 32nd floor. It's only a tad cheaper to buy a drink than pay the entrance fee for the viewing floor higher up but I was able to relax and take in the views of Tower Bridge, St Paul's Cathedral, and the monument to the Great fire of London. Glass, steel and concrete 21st century buildings look down over the ancient and iconic buildings below. 

The new and ultra modern buildings are infiltrating not only the vista but the language of London. Their names have been superseded with nicknames like only the Brits can provide - the Gherkin, the Cheese Grater, Walkie Talkie and Armidillo! When you see the buildings it's easy to identify them. 

Working my way back to Harrods, I bought lunch to take away and headed over to Hyde Park for an impromptu picnic. It seemed like most of London was out in the park that afternoon, family groups  picnicking, peddling on the Sepentine in paddle boats feeding the ducks.  It was only after I sat down on the park bench beside the lake that I realised that my choice of wrap may not have been the most appropriate - Hoi Sin Duck! Oops. Sorry little birds. 

Catching up with Lucy, the honorary Aussie from my tour of Turkey last year was great.  We ventured south to the magnificent Hampton Court Palace - Henry VIII' home where we found ourselves amazed at the craftsmanship of the buildings and beauty of the gardens. It was in stark comparison to the ancient but also magnificent ruins we had seen all over Turkey. We enjoyed a short play- about a Shakespearean play, in the grand hall and found ourselves lost in the grounds and the maze. Dampening weather called for a tactical retreat from the maze!!!

 Recognise anyone?

Trying to tick off some of the icons that I never got around to seeing when I lived in London in '87, Windsor Castle was next on my list. I timed it nicely as Her Majesty was in residence, for the changing of the guard, I then queued up with the hundreds of other visitors to see Queen Mary's dolls house and the State Apartments. Lizzy lives on the other side of the buildings but it's still amazing to think that you can be casually wandering around the home of such highly guarded people. 

I'm assuming that the range rover to the far right of the pic is Lizzy's!!!

As I strolled through the village of Windsor a name struck me - Marco Pierre Whyte. Here was one of his restaurants and its was lunchtime. I've always loved him on Masterchef so in I went. Sadly it was a very disappointing meal. My wine arrived in a chipped glass and the gnocchi I ordered had a completely different sauce to that described on the menu. The gnocchi were very much on the chewy side - not the little fluffy potato pillows I expected and the excuse for the different sauce somewhat pathetic. Not keen to recommend. 

Tuesday certainly turned into a rather hectic day.  Arriving back in Bayswater late afternoon, the weather was still clear with patches of blue sky. Despite being quite exhausted from walking around Windsor, I knew that the weather was not going to be as kind for the rest of the week so I jumped back on the tube and headed for the giant Ferris wheel down by the river Thames. The London Eye provides some lovely views over London. 

After the loop in the Eye, I dashed across the river back to theatre land to try to get a ticket to one of the must-see plays on at the moment - The Book of Mormon. Completely sold out 😟 so time to stand in the "returns queue". Two couples ahead of me.  If there's a single ticket I just might be in luck.  Fingers crossed!

The play gods are on my side - the only return is a single, stalls, 8th row smack bang in the middle - Bingo!!! As I sat down, the parents of the girl who was unable to make it were delighted to know that the ticket had been taken. The mum also mentioned that she hoped I wasn't easily offended as the play is quite crude. It was quite a fun and funny play, although somewhat school-boy toilet humour at times. Loved the story and ending. Glad I was able to see it. 

Wednesday bought another double header at the theatre - Kinky Boots and The End of Longing. 

Before heading over to the Strand for Kinky Boots, I stopped at the National Library and found myself on the third floor enjoying a lunch overlooking Westminster and the grey clouds and rain making their way towards me. It amazing to think that you can have such great views from only the third floor!! Wish I had had the time to stay for the Vogue exhibition. Looked interesting. 

Kinky Boots is definitely my pick of the week - a vibrant, engaging and hilarious musical. It's coming to Melbourne early next year so go out and get a ticket. 

The End of Longing is a Matthew Perry play he has written and directs as well as has the leading roll. It was an unknown for me but a change of pace from the musicals. It was an interesting play making for a change from the mostly musicals I had seen so far. 

One day left and London has Thursday matinee sessions. Which play to see? I choose the Carol King tribute Beautiful. A fabulous nostalgic journey of her life, and the music of the 60s and early 70s. I thoroughly enjoyed it from a front row balcony seat!  Being a single traveller can have its advantages. 

Thursday night had been reserved for a catchup with my honorary niece - Naomi. Enjoyed the pub dinner and hearing all the gossip. Thanks D for showing me your adopted home town of Cheswick. I can fully understand why you chose to live there. Oh and not to mention introducing me to some great gelati!

What a week it's been. Seen six plays, a castle and a palace, caught up with a couple of friends and saw London from above. Goals achieved!

Next stop - Leiden in The Netherlands!