Bucket list - Part 1

It's not all about ticking places and experiences off the bucket list but it's so nice when you finally can achieve even the small ones. 

On this trip one of the major ticks was to visit Mont Saint Michel. I first saw a picture of this amazing abbey sitting atop an island just off the Normandy coast of France, way back in 1987.  So it has been on 'the list' for nearly 30 years! 

On my 8 day coach tour of the 'Jewels of France', I was finally able to visit Mont St Michel. We arrived very late in the afternoon and had a bit of a challenge to make our way through the tourist crowd to get up to the Abbey - we had to get through the tourist crowds and then climb a mere 320 steps to get to the Abbey entrance gate before it closed at 5pm. It was now 4:50pm. My dodgy knees were not going to like this!!!

Adrenalin is a powerful drug and my determination to finally see the abbey overcame aches, pains and the screaming I could feel from from my knees. But it was so worth the wait and the climb. 

First glimpses of MSM standing like a beacon calling us across the fields. 

The Abbey was ancient and dark. It's stone walls stretching up to towering cathedral ceilings, forming arches along the cloisters and the stairs. There was very little in the way of electric lighting but the natural light coming in from the windows gave the rooms a beautiful ethereal quality. And the views out from the windows were just as spectacular. 

Below the abbey but still on the island were the many shops, cafes, restaurants homes and the occasional hotel. Unfortunately for us most of the shops were closing up but it was still too early for the restaurants to open for dinner. So after wandering around the ramparts for a while we took the shuttle bus back across to the 'mainland' for a pleasant dinner near our hotel. Then we headed back toward MSM to watch the sunset and see the Abbey lit up in the darkness. Beautiful!!!

The opportunity to have a sleep in the next morning was vetoed by the chance to watch the sunrise lighting up the opposite side of MSM. Another enjoyable way to see this lovely island and its famous abbey in all its glory. 

Living in Paris in a beautiful apartment was a dream come true even if it was only for a week! Thanks to an Australian friend who rents his apartment, I was able to take the time to relax and live the Parisian lifestyle ( well tourist style anyway). 

The apartment is the three windows on the first floor above the blue striped awning.  

The apartment was in the Marais district or 3rd Arrondisment, not very far from the Place de Republic. It was walking distance to The Picasso Museum and not too much further to the Louvre. The Picasso Museum was my only cultural stop during the week and I have to say that much of his work -  particularly his sculptures are not really to my taste. But the building and its gardens were lovely. 

To familiarise myself to the area I again took a walking tour. This was a wonderful way to find out about the hidden gems of this Arrondisment and get more of an insight into how a Mariasian lives or even walks. Well apparently they don't walk - they strut as if on cat walk! It's true I saw several incredibly well dressed gentlemen doing just that. But I think the main trick for anyone wandering around Paris is trying to avoid the doggy-do!  

There are many beautiful public gardens locked up behind closed doors if you know where to find them. Alternatively as our guide explained "if you see a doorway open, go and take a look inside. You never know what you might find!"

So our exploring took us through centuries old Paris Chateauxs, the Jewish Quarters, student digs and very stylish apartment blocks. Shops in the Marais are an eclectic and somewhat confused mix.  Window shopping it was difficult to determine if the shop was a) a clothing store, b) an art gallery, c) a cafe, or d) an antique dealer. Answer - e) all of the above. I even bought a beautiful book at a great little  boutique bar. It made for a great time shopping. You never knew what the shop would be. 

Is it a toy store, beauty salon or shoe store? Well I think it was actually a hairdressers!!!

Waking up then wandering downstairs to the boulangerie for my morning croissant and juice, dining at little cafes devoid of tourists but crowded with locals enjoying the dish of the day and the house vin de rouge were a few of the highlights of living like a Parisian. 

Part 2 to come

Lest We Forget

Although it wasn't the main reason for coming back to France, I was keen to see, experience and pay homage in the areas of Northern France where our WW1 (& WW2) soldiers fought and so many now lay at rest. 

It was indeed a humbling experience tinged with tears at times not only for the men but because of the futility of their sacrifices. Lessons have not been learnt. 

However I felt that I should acknowledge the sacrifices that they made, whether that was for the right or wrong reasons. The hundreds of cemeteries and memorials we drove past and those we stopped at, left me aghast. It is mind boggling and totally incomprehensible the number of men who died in the Somme and Fromelles. And it wasn't only those on our side. 

The Digger Memorial. 

Crater left by massive underground bombing of the enemy trenches. 

I had booked a 3 day tour that would finish with the Dawn Service on Anzac Day at Villiers Bretonneux. But I realised that thousands of other tourists would also be there so I booked a separate one day tour of the Somme about two weeks earlier. It gave me the opportunity to see it in an unhurried manner without the crowds. I'm glad I was able to experience each way. 

The dawn service for Anzac Day was beautiful and moving. It was freezing cold but that only gave the minutest of inklings as to what our heroes endured.  It wasn't raining, we weren't knee deep in mud, or flooded trenches and there was certainly no enemy just beyond daybreak.  

The Australian Memorial at VB. the Australian pilgrims would be here en masses in 12 days time..

The view from the top of the memorial shows the flatness of the land that was being fought over. 

The Dawn begins.

Tributes left by the highest ranked GG Cosgrove to fellow travellers - Judy and Peter. 

Prior to Anzac Day we visited the Menin Gate. Here another service is held nightly starting with the Last Post to commemorate the fallen. Some 55,000 names are written on this memorial to honour those who have now known grave.  The seemingly endless lists of names on memorial after memorial and the cemeteries is mind boggling. 

Just a few of the Australians listed at Menin Gate. 

We visited other Commonwealth cemeteries including the New Foundland and Canadian as well as a German cemetery. The contrast was quite stark. 

Here you could still see where the trenches were. 

In contrast to the white gravestones of the commonwealth cemeteries, the German had plain crosses with four names per cross. 

Unlike our memorials at home which are generally in the middle of every country town and city, those in France are literally in the farmers paddocks. While we may only see them at home if we happen to drive past, here in France they have a constant reminder in their backyard. 

And as the residents of VB proudly announce on their Victoria School - "Do not forget Australia"

Their streets were lined with French and Australian flags and their windows and gardens inhabited by Aussie creatures. 

Garden inspiration!

Those of you who have seen my home know that gardening is not really my thing. 

So I've been trying to get ideas and inspiration from the magnificent spring blooms while I've been on holidays.

There have been the gardens of the palaces of England and France. 

Hampton Court Palace - beautiful fields, daffodils, jonquils and orderly garden beds. 

Or I could just plant lots of grassed area with some pencil pines and a fountain or two. 

In the Loire Vally we saw the amazing Chateaux. I had not been into a historical building so beautifully presented.  The fires were actually lit in the rooms providing a truly warm and inviting atmosphere and the fresh floral displays in the rooms were not only colourful but very modern and imaginative. 

Outside the formal gardens were just coming into bloom. 

The 'piece de resistance' would have to be Versailles. Instead of taking a tour of the palace I decided to take a tour of the gardens. This enlightening tour showed the beauty of the design and secret hidden places in the gardens that I would not have found on my own. Then I visited the two Trianons (smaller palaces) - used by Marie Antoinette among others, and their gardens. After 5 hours in the glorious sunshine outside I then headed back to the Palace, now without any queuing and wandered through the rooms almost unhindered by crowds. In the Hall of Mirrors it was now possible to actually the see the room and not just the tourists!

The view down the Grand Canal. 

The Hall of Mirrors with very few tourists!!!

Of course it's not all castles and palaces. The visit to Giverny to see Monet's garden showed what a lovely pond and a few water lilies can do to enhance a back garden( and inspire his beautiful artwork!)

As well as the famous pond there were also lovely rows of colourful tulips, espaliered trees and wonderful archways.  No everything was out in bloom but what was gave a great insight into this beautiful home style garden. 

A walking tour around the local Marais area of Paris also showed lovely little hidden gardens behind the tall centuries old walls. Some were private but others were community gardens. As our guide mentioned "if you see a gate or door open into a courtyard you are allowed to enter" as many of the gardens are a sort of right of way. 

Colour in every garden with spring, a pleasant place to sit and contemplate the world and the veggie patch in the corner.  

Or maybe given my slopped backyard I should plant some grapevines. 

This is the last remaining vineyard on Mont Martre. Each year they pick the grapes to make a wine that is sold for charity. Apparently it's undrinkable but the charity benefits greatly. 

As for my garden? Should I be putting in tulips, fountains, formal edges, espaliered fruit trees, masses of colour or some vines?

So after much searching I still haven't found a plan for my own garden, but it's been a delightful time trying!

Maybe a vine or two would be fun???

How to dress a man - part 2

Following on from last years post from Italy - How to dress an Italian man, here's my new version of How to Dress a Frenchman!

The picture says it all!

The Dutchies!

If I thought my week in London was hectic, I was completely unprepared for a weekend in Leiden, Holland where my friends Barbara and Mireille live. We met in the Galapagos back in Christmas 2011. We had last caught up when Mireille and Barbara visited me in briefly in Melbourne a couple of years ago.  

Mireille and Barbara had organised a 'program' for the weekend based on information of where I had previously been ( well what I could remember, given that it was 33 years since my last visit to Holland.) 

Off the plane at Schiphol airport and onto the train to Leiden where Mireille picked me up then it was straight to the pub for dinner with Barbara and some friends. Barb and co were there to listen to their singing teacher who was performing jazz and blues. A great way to kick off my time in Leiden - home of Hollands oldest university. 

Saturday became not only a whirl wind tour of Holland for me but also a chance for the Dutchies to see some more of their own country. Isn't that always the way?! 

I started the day with a cooling - make that freezing, toe dip in the North Sea. Definitely refreshing. For some reason the Dutchies didn't join me??

In contrast to the grey sea and sky, the fields of Holland were starting to bloom with the beautiful colours of spring flowers and of course the tulips. Stopping at the tulip farm was not on the 'program' but a quick roadside stop near some pretty fields would suffice. 

Well that was until we got closer and realised that there was just one very tiny little problem - these were hyacinths NOT tulips!!!  So some sheepish Dutchies and I headed north past Amsterdam. 

Although I had mentioned to the Dutchies that I been to several places on the last visit (1983) I had forgotten to mention Volendam. This iconic Dutch town is a major tourist destination with its lovely old houses, originally on the sea front but now on the land locked lake. This year marks the 100 year anniversary of their biggest ever flood which resulted in the dyke being built that now has Volendam sitting on the shores of a lake rather than the sea.

Mireille and Barb thought this would be an ideal opportunity for them to see part of Holland they had not previously visited as well as show it off to me.  It ended up a case of me almost being the tour guide for the locals!!!

So we went all out and did as any good tourist does when in Volendam and had our photo take in traditional costume. What a hoot! 

The fun continued back in Amsterdam for the evening where we enjoyed a great dinner cruise through the canals. Of course we had an obligatory stop first at the toll house (Waas) and then a early wander through the red light district. The English Bucks and Hens parties were out in large numbers already making the most of their weekend away!

Cruising around the canals was a marvellous way to see the beautiful old architecture of Amsterdam, the bridges and the lights once darkness fell. 

Mireille is a primary school principal and true to her background, recycled a quiz style walking tour of Leiden (she had previously run for her work colleagues) to start the Sunday morning off. Barbara and I had to follow her cryptic photos and and answer questions at certain stops along the way. There was also the obligatory stops for coffee, drinks or lunch along the trail. It was a fun way to discovery some of the hidden gems of Leiden, find out its history and also educate the Dutchies on their own town! Neither Mireille nor Barbara were aware until I read it on an information board that tulips were first planted in Western Europe in their very own Leiden. 

In true Dutch style Leiden is built on canals. The beautiful Sunday morning provided some very pretty scenes. The sun was out and slowly the residents and students came out to make the most of it. Where we might take a 'Sunday drive' in this city of water, the families take to the canals in their boats, cruising around, or stopping for a drink at the numerous waterside cafes and pubs. 

I was invited by the lady who lives in this VERY old building to come inside for photo as Mireille mentioned that I had come all the way from Australia. The lady was not so obliging to another couple passing by - they hadn't traveled far enough!!!!

Leiden is also the birth place of Rembrant.

Having successfully completed our challenge, Barb, Mireille and I caught up with Madelaine who was also on the Galapagos cruise with M&B and time for wander around the fort built on top of the highest point of Leiden.

 

Madelaine -the great photobomber!!!

Strolling back to Mireille's apartment, I couldn't see her car on the street and casually mentioned it to M. No - it didn't appear to be where she had parked it on Friday night.  Oops!! Without any sign of panic, histeria or swearing M calmly set about trying to locate her car - had it been towed or worse - stolen? A stressful half hour and several phone calls later it was confirmed as towed.  So apart from a nasty fine for M it also meant that we were no longer taking the car to her tennis match that night. I would have to ride one of her bikes.  

Now I'm happy to cycle - particularly when the path is on flat terrain, but M is about 25cm taller than me.  For the first time since I was 5years old, trying to ride my big sisters' bike, I couldn't sit on the seat and reach the peddles. So I peddled standing up which wasn't doing my dodgy knees any good at all. What should have been a 15 minute cycle took closer to half and hour! I must also have looked a sight in a very uncoordinated way as one of M's tennis mates (another Barbara) took pity on me and offered me her much lower bike to ride home. Heaven! A quick 15 minute ride back and M's comment was 'You really can ride!' Thanks Barb you saved my knees and cycling reputation. 

Thank you so very much Mireille and Barbara for your wonderful hospitality and fantastic memories of great weekend. What a way to see your beautiful city and country. 

Monday morning it was farewell to Leiden and and take a relaxing train ride onto my third country in just over a week - France.